Travel

955

On Hannibal’s Trail

We have all heard of Hannibal. The general who crossed the Alps with his elephants and nearly brought Rome to its knees is Carthage’s most famous son. Determined to take on his country’s greatest foe, Hannibal led a multicultural army over two mountain chains, and despite being permanently outnumbered, meted out crippling defeats to Rome […]

956

Postcard from Chicago

Chicago is a very European city. With the wind whipping up Lake Michigan, it feels like Geneva on an autumnal day until you look back to the forest of extraordinary skyscrapers that make up the heart of this city. More European still are the elegantly tended flower beds that line the main streets, and belong […]

938

The Director’s Diary

Every time I arrive at the British School at Rome, it is somehow different. Old buildings and strong institutions can be like that; they hold up a mirror to us so that whilst they persist, we see our own changes more clearly. The first time I visited I was at Oxford, writing my doctoral thesis […]

937

Notes from Rome

For Sigmund Freud, the archaeology of the city of Rome was a metaphor for the unconscious mind – a place where no memories or influences are ever lost or forgotten. Recent excavations in the city have made a reality of the psychologist’s flight of fancy. The construction of a new metropolitan rail-line has brought discoveries […]

921

Arycanda

With its magnificent archaeology, panoramic views, and blissful natural setting, Arycanda is one of Southwest Turkey’s must-see sites, as Ays’egül Gürgezog˘ lu explains.

920

Olba Territorium

Between the Mediterranean and the Taurus Mountains, the Olba region of Southern Turkey is rich with archaeology. Ümit Aydinog˘lu takes us on a tour from coast to inland.

894

Arles, Underwater Finds

Former chief archaeological advisor to English Heritage David Miles travels to Arles in Southern France. There, he pays homage to a new exhibition featuring Caesar’s head and an array of other finds dredged from ‘la plus grande poubelle’ – AKA the Rhône at Arles.

893

Siracusa, Sicily

Beneath the glorious Sicilian coastal city of Siracusa lies a vast underground world, as Michael Metcalfe reveals.

Jordan

Jordan: all that Glistens is not Gold

The CWA-allied Great Arab Revolt Project has just completed its fourth season in the Jordanian desert searching for the remains of Lawrence of Arabia’s war. Sometimes, archaeological discoveries are spectacular. More often, they are very mundane. But, argues GARP landscape archaeologist John Winterburn, the very mundane can be packed with information

871

Périgord Noir

Périgord possesses two superlative assets: unrivalled rock art and matchless cuisine. The two seem utterly incompatible: after all, it stretches one’s imagination to associate archaeologists of early humans with discerning culinary matters. In essence, these archaeologists are manqué fossil hunters, gripped by the metrics of fragmentary bones and stones. Yet again, perhaps for all their […]

870

Ghadames

The oasis town of Ghadames is an architectural gem in western Libya. It once lay on the trans-Saharan trade-route described in the previous feature. Words and pictures Fiona Dunlop.

815

Baia, the Underworld

Just west of the entrance to the underworld, lies the site of Baia. Mike Cless takes us there, tells of a divine discovery, then ventures underground

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